Necklace and earrings with emeralds INLAID with ruby and diamond flowers.
Necklace and matching earrings, set with cabochon emeralds inlaid with ruby and diamond flowers. The emeralds are Indian, Mughal, 18th-19th century, with diamond mounts. The front part of the necklace forms a tasselled rope which loops into a double strand of diamonds round the back, where the clasp is formed by a large circular encrusted emerald. Maker’s marks. Contained in original fitted red leather Cartier case.
The cabochon emeralds inlaid with ruby and diamond flowers are Indian work of the 19th century, set in the Western style with baton diamonds.
Cartier themselves travelled widely in India, to seek commissions from Indian clients who wanted their jewels reset in platinum in the Western taste and to bring back quantities of Indian stones and pearls which were then mounted for Western clients. Fashionable and artistic society in London and Paris adopted the exotic Indian style. At the international exhibition held in Paris in 1925, Cartier’s showpieces were set with magnificent carved Mughal emeralds.
(via British Museum)
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